Zingermans is Much More Then a Deli

Our Aunt Lynn and Uncle Lawry made sure we saw what makes Ann Arbor, Michigan such a special place. Our visit to Zingerman’s really stood out. Zingerman’s is a part of the Ann Arbor community and it was fascinating to learn about their business philosophies and delicious products.

For the past twenty-eight years Zingerman’s has been a part of Ann Arbor.  They started simply by taking over an old deli and making it their own; increasing the quality of the meats, cheeses, and breads. This soon expanded in to a mail order business that sold all their fresh bread and meats, but also a variety of other food products from olive oils to chocolates.  They have incredible gift baskets too.

Brian and I once got a basket that had some of the yummy bread.  Included in the package were directions on how to freeze and easily bake the bread again in the oven to make it taste fresh. It really worked too.

Before we came to Ann Arbor we had a general idea of what Zingerman’s was all about, but we didn’t really understand how high their standards in hospitality. Our first example of this was when Lynn sent an e-mail to the company letting them know who we were and what we were doing.

Lynn explained to Zingerman’s that she thought a trip to the deli would really give a taste for their special company. Shortly after this correspondence Ari Weinzweig, the co- founder of Zingerman’s, emailed her back himself! He was excited that we were going to eat at the deli and unfortunately was out of town on tour with their new book about bacon but put us in touch with Jenny Tubbs. She got back with us immediately and said that she had arranged for us to take a look at the inner workings of the bake house and hoped that we would enjoy our lunch.

I was blown away by the personal attention that Jenny and Ari gave us! This might be something that I would expect from a small restaurant or company but not from a group as large as this. I would learn throughout my day with Zingerman’s that they are not at all like other companies.

At Zingerman’s deli we were met with what seemed like a dauntingly long line for a Monday, but there had to be a reason for it, right? A woman helping to move people into the building at a manageable rate handed us menus and offered us tasting of some pasta salads and some friendly small talk.  The long line turned out to be pretty pleasant.

When we made it inside our order was taken by a nice young lady who acted as though we were the only people in the room, quite a skill when you realize how many people she must have talked to before us and the long the line that was still waiting for her outside.

After placing our order we went to a dining building next door and waited for our lunch to be delivered; Brian, Lynn and I got to watch a show of organized madness.  Staff members were everywhere from changing trash, cleaning tables, making coffee, and taking orders. How can a place of business works like this, there are just so many customers and so much going on? The solution at Zingerman’s seems to be easy: have enough staff on hand at all time to make sure every guest is well taken care of. And it works!

Zingerman’s hiring practices are what allows them to meet the heavy demand, they have excellent staff and our experience at Zingerman’s Deli was great.  The food was hot and good and the employees were fun.  Our sandwiches were made with thick slices of fresh bread and the meats were sweet with their own juices. The pastrami could compete with any New York Jewish style deli. They have high standards in both their food and their guest service.

With our bellies full our happy group made our way to Zingerman’s production area where, in large warehouses with orange tops Zingerman’s houses their other business. A bakery, candy shop, coffee house, and creamery all lined up and welcoming to all.

As we walked into the bakery we were hit with the warm smells of freshly baked bread. Katie was the manager on duty and greeted us with her big smile and offered us a tour of the bakery. She first took us into the bread baking area. The huge open space we walked into was full of large equipment like mixers and large deck ovens. Plastic bins full of proofing dough gave a nice fermentation smell to the room. As Katie told us about the different aspects of the bakery and pastry departments we watched Aaron perform a beautifully choreographed dance of moving bread out of the oven and onto a cooling rack.Watch Aaron work his magic

Aaron has been with Zingerman’s for eleven years!  Katie tells us “he thinks that the bread bakes better when Celtic music is playing” so no one questions him because the bread does come out very well. Working with the ovens for so many years he knows each and every hot spot.

After he rearranged many different loafs, Aaron moved over to the work table behind us. He removed a gassesy mass of dough from one of the waiting plastic bins and folded the dough several times before returning it to the bin to rise again. Aaron was such an artist, the way he made the dough dance for him. (See The Dance of Rising Dough.)

We saw the pastry kitchen next where a cook was egg washing scones and someone else was scooping coconut meringues. We also tried their flaky croissants and their moist poppy seed-lemon cake.  Every day the workers asses the quality of all their products to make sure the quality is the same. We got to taste many of the breads and pastries and I can tell you they were great!

Next, Katie introduced us to Charlie who is an owner and the manager of the candy bar production at Zingerman’s that started back in 2002. Charlie is also a fellow Culinary Institute of America alumnus! It was fun to talk about our school and since he graduated from the culinary program we learned how he made the move to the sweeter side of the kitchen. It turns out that he started with Zingerman’s working in the pastry department and eventually started up his candy bar company as an offshoot of Zingerman’s.

Charlie shared the Zzag! Original chocolate bar with us while we watched as two cooks prepared the bars by hand. The bars are simple and classic with peanuts, caramel, and dark chocolate. First a golden caramel is made and then mixed with Virgina peanuts. (I was raised eating VA peanuts, they are a special treat in my house, so I was excited by the choice of a high quality product) The caramel is topped with a brown sugar nougat. They coat the bars in my favorite chocolate, a 65% pure Ecuadorian chocolate!

What I found inspiring about the bakery was how many humans were really working there. Now a day’s bread can so easily be made mostly by machines and only needs someone to press the start button. At Zingerman’s they have obviously made the choice not to do it that way. I think this really highlights the company’s commitment to the Ann Arbor area. By keeping jobs local, paying well, and by creating a positive and fun work environment they end up with happy workers who believe in the company.

We found that these high standards and good working conditions where also obvious at the creamery where Mike shared his passion for cheese with us and at the new Coffee shop where Anya took much of her time to help educate us regarding the ins and outs of coffee brewing.

Mike at the creamery generously showed us how they make the cheese and let us taste some very yummy cheeses like the smoked mozzarella and the triple-cream goat cheese.

Anya at the coffee shop was very friendly and she seemed be very happy to just be doing her job, her enthusiasm for coffee is contagious!

I was so enamored with Zingerman’s that I was nearly ready to move in with Lynn and Lawry and start working wherever they wanted me. This is the kind of organization I want to be a part of. They pay their employees well enough so they stick around for a long time, the food is great, they make sure there is enough staff so that everyone can do their job well, and they want the people of Ann Arbor to find success. Why would anyone not want to work with them?

Zingerman’s decided a long time ago that instead of becoming a chain of delis they would invest their money in new business ideas that will keep the company local and create jobs for Michigan. I think these guys really have the right idea. They make plenty of money and instead of trying to make tons more, they’re sharing the wealth by helping their community to flourish and grow.

So Ari, call me if you’re looking for a food writer…or anything else!